Duct Tape Theory - Episode 1

 Bali. 

 

The island goes by many names, but what makes the land formation, home to 4.3 million residents and many more visitors, located in the South Western parts of the Flores Sea unique, is that it means different things to different people, whatever one might call it.

 

Welcome everyone. I can't believe I say this, but this is our very first episode of Duct Tape Theory. This episode, let alone this show, has been in the making for months now. 

 

It's been a wild journey with countless edits and going back to the drawing board moments, but...we made it, and I couldn't be happier that we're finally here.

 

So with all that out of the way, again, welcome to Duct Tape Theory. I'm Sunny Fassler. I'm a journalist, writer, surfer creator and your host as we navigate the sheer incomprehensible depth of the world, exploring places, people, stories and culture through the unfiltered lens of action sports.

 

In this chapter, we're headed to an island that echoes the sound of world-class waves and whispers with the hush of emerald rice fields. 

 

Welcome to Bali - a place affectionately known as the Island of the Gods, Spiritual city, the land of the lefts - each name a testament to the island's multifaceted personality.

 

To me, Bali is a kaleidoscope of experiences, a chameleon that adapts to the eye of the observer. It's the sophisticated boutiques and culinary delights of Seminyak, the bad decisions late out at night in Kuta, the sprawling luxury along Nusa Dua's beaches. 

 

It's the gypsy soul of Canggu, the serene beauty to the east and north, the world-class waves scattered all over the Bukit Peninsula, the spiritual heart of Ubud, and the wild frontier of the west. 

 

But what truly distinguishes Bali, more than its renowned surf and exotic settings, are the people who call the island home. 

 

See, the Balinese have defied the test of time, firmly holding on to their age-old customs, even in the face of rising popularity and the introduction of the digital age. The heart of Bali is its enduring cultural legacy, pulsating vibrantly across every corner of the island.

 

For many, that's the appeal - the pull of centuries-old traditions, the alluring dance of cultures and the modern world. And then there are those of us drawn back time and time again to the charm of perfect waves and exotic flavors: the vibrant nightlife and authentic Balinese hospitality that encompasses this irresistible energy of the place.

 

Most of us, though, are just passing through. But for some, Bali is more than just a stopover. It's home.

 

And this is where our journey leads us today, to a group of individuals who made their mark right here on this island—people who have been instrumental in establishing Bali on the global action sports map.

 

For this episode, I've had the pleasure of speaking with legendary surfers and local royalty Marlon Gerber and Rizal Tandjung, who've carved their stories onto the face of Bali's iconic waves. I've also connected with Afandy Dharma Fairbrother, a former pro skater turned skatepark mogul who used his passion to pioneer Bali's thriving skate scene.

 

Their stories echo the enduring spirit of the island, but the narrative isn't limited to its native sons and daughters. 

 

Bali, with its enchanting charisma, pulls in passionate souls and personalities from all over the world. 

 

Someone who embodies this testament is Swedish-Portuguese filmmaker and photographer Crille Rask. As one of Bali's many adopted sons, Rask is an ambassador of those drawn to the island from far-off lands. In our conversation, he portrays a place that, despite challenging its dwellers at times, makes it nearly impossible to leave for good.

 

Transition segment - Marlon Gerber

But before we can get to the people who make Bali special, let's start with the place itself. 

 

Bali's origins trace back thousands of years. Archaeological discoveries provide a glimpse into its early civilizations, where intricate stone carvings and sacred temples tell tales of worship and devotion.

 

From the prosperity under the Warmadewa Dynasty and the powerful influence of the Majapahit Empire, Bali blossomed into a vibrant center of culture and commerce.

 

 

But the island's history is not without its challenges. Bali faced a time of severe trials during the Dutch colonial era. 

 

Suppression of local culture and political turmoil threatened the Balinese spirit, yet its people proved to be resilient. 

 

Local heroes, like Gusti Ngurah Rai, emerged, fighting fiercely for independence, ensuring the preservation of their unique cultural heritage.

 

This isn't a history lesson. Far from it, but it serves as the foundation of Bali's strong sense of identity, because today's Bali is a different world - where old and new dance in perfect harmony, forming a vibrant hub of culture, spirituality, and adventure. 

 

Heroes like Gusti Ngurah Rai have long been replaced. Independence is no longer the battle cry, displaced instead by a call for cultural preservation and global recognition. 

 

One such figure who answers this call is Marlon Gerber - a name that reverberates across the island with the same intensity as the ocean's tidal shifts holding the torch high for a new breed of ambassadors that embody the spirit of Bali.

 

Marlon has become synonymous with the island's surf culture as a member of surf royalty alongside his brother-in-law Rizal Tanjung. Born to a Swiss German Father and an Indonesian Mother, his journey into professional surfing took a path less conventional, even going against his father's initial wishes. 

 

His tale showcases the many layers that make Bali a focal point in the action sports landscape, while highlighting the challenges and changes that come with a rapidly evolving world.

 

We'll learn how a young man yearning for home transformed his homesickness into a catalyst to become a pro surfer. 

 

We'll take a step back in time to understand life on the island before the Instagram reels, beach clubs, and latte art. 

 

And in his own words, Marlon will help us delve deeper into the compelling fusion of history, geography, and ecology that paints a picture of his beloved island home like no other.

 

Insert Interview Segment - Marlon Geber

 

Bali is one of the best places on earth, to be honest. And I've traveled a lot around the world, and, yeah, the whole world's just now realizing what a great place Bali is, and the waves are just a bonus on top of know.

 

 I think people have a lot to do. Everybody's so welcoming there and, yeah, the people make a huge difference, because if you go to other parts of Indonesia, people aren't as friendly, you know? And Bali is special in that way. 

 

I feel the culture there is still strong despite all this influence from outside. I think the Balinese know their priorities. They don't forget the culture, and it's still visible every day. 

 

If you go around in Bali and they still block traffic for ceremonies and stuff like that, and people accept it because they understand that this is culture and it's been going on for hundreds of years. And the Balinese are good at that to preserve their culture and not forget it.

 

When I was growing up in Bali, it was just a jungle, and I just remember there's like big open fields where I could ride my bike and fly kites, and there's so much space. This is Kuta when I was a kid, but nowadays, it's all built up and concrete jungle everywhere but yeah, I have so many good memories growing up. 

 

Now I look back; it was like the best a kid could hope for growing up in that environment. I grew up in Kuta Beach, pretty much just a short walk from the beach, so naturally every day after school, I would go to the beach and surf, and that was my routine every day.

 

I was just surfing. School. Surfing. School. That's all I did. So yeah, that shaped me into becoming a surfer. And I met Rizal when I was around twelve years old, and I was already surfing by then, but he took me under his wing, and he was like the first pro surfer. 

 

So I just did everything, copied everything he did. And he would also give me tips on how to improve my surfing. And, yeah, he was my coach, kind of, so that was really helpful. 

 

Having him around growing up. And of course, he introduced me to all the surf scene. The surf industry. He got me sponsored, and, yeah, everything just snowballed from there. 

 

When I graduated high school, there was like a moment where do we go from here? Do we go to school, or do I go back to Bali and go surfing? And I was going to school in Australia at the time, and I was homesick and just wanted to be home, so I went back home.

 

 And during that time, I was in Australia for high school, so I didn't surf much, making me hungrier to surf and appreciate surfing more. So when I got back to Bali, that's all I did was just surf, surf, surf, and how to improve. That was my thing every day. 

 

My dad is Swiss German, and he wanted me to go to the school, university, get a job, kind of route. But because I was what I had in Bali was just so perfect, surfing. And that made me happy. So I just went with my guts and just like, okay, I'm just going to go surfing. Let's wait for school, give school a break for a bit. 

 

And ended up just being my thing for most of my life. But now it's all like a huge change from when I was a little kid growing up in Kuta to know. Yeah, I don't know, for example, like the wall. There used to be no wall between the main road of Kuta Beach and the beach. 

 

I just remember that road was always a nice drive to look at the waves, but now it's all walled up and there's even a skate park and a walk path on the beach. So for sure there's a lot of changes. 

 

And obviously the tourists, it's super packed these days in Bali, and you hardly get a wave to yourself anymore like we used to. But there are still some secret spots around. 

 

There's a lot of spots that people tend to forget to check from time to time. Even myself, we tend to go to the main spots. Everybody just follows each other, but you sometimes forget, oh, that spot was pumping on that spot. I was like, Fuck, why didn't we think of that one? So there are still spots. Just got to get out there and get lucky, I guess. Yeah, there's a lot of beaches. 

 

Growing up where the access was difficult. You had to hike and steps and whatever. But now a lot of these spots, they carved out a road down to the beach and made it super easy to access the beach. And with that, you get all these mainstream. 2s You know, like bus loads of people, which it's not always fun to be around, you know, causes traffic and people leave their rubbish around everywhere, but, you know, it brings money to the to the villages and to the people. 

 

So there's good and bad about it. You know, it is what it is, definitely. I like the vibe in the water more in Kuta and Seminyak. Like, I feel everyone's more chilled on that side. Canggu, as everybody knows, a lot of hipsters hang out there, and yeah, I don't really go to Canggu anymore. I haven't been there in years. I don't know. Last time I was in Canggu was a few years ago, and I just had a bad experience in the water. I don't know. I never usually get aggravated in the water, but this time, this guy, I think he burned me and then got mad at me for it, and I was just like, wow, okay, I'm going in. Don't want to deal with it. 

 

 I like the Kuta and Seminyak side. It's more laid back, I guess, for me, and not as many traffic jams. And the East Coast? I don't know. I like the East Coast a lot. It's black sand and you get the view of the volcano there a lot. And the waves are probably one of my favorite waves on the island. There's a lot of rights on that side.

 

The Bukit side, as you know, there's a lot of lefts and when I surf Ulu, the vibe in the water has been good. Know, everybody's kind of just getting along. Not super aggressive, but it depends on the day and depends who's out and also kind of depends on yourself, too, sometimes if you're in the mood to deal with crowd or not. So there's a lot of factors, but more or less in general, it's just more crowded. 

 

Transition Part - People Segment with Afandy Dharma Fairbrother

 

Bali's charm doesn't just lie in its sweeping landscapes; it is the people who breathe life into this island that truly define its essence. 

 

From the farmers tending to the terraced paddies to the artisans carving history into wood and stone, Bali thrives on its people.

 

Home to roughly 4.3 million souls, the island puts diversity impressively on display.

 

The Balinese, who make up over 90% of the island's population, trace their roots back to the Austronesian people, who journeyed from Asia and Oceania around 2000 BCE. 

 

Over the centuries, Bali has been a melting pot of cultures - an amalgamation of Chinese, Indian, and particularly, Javanese influences, the latter being especially significant mainly because of its geographical proximity and historical affiliations.

 

Despite the external influences, the Balinese have held firm to their unique cultural heritage. They practice a variant of Hinduism known as Agama Hindu Dharma, evidently different from the Indian variant. 

 

It is deeply intertwined into their daily life, dictating everything from community affairs to artistic expressions, which are abundant - ranging from dance and drama to music and visual arts.

 

Yet, it's not just about the cultural practices; it's also about the character of the Balinese people. Known for their generous hospitality and calm demeanor, they are the embodiment of the philosophy of Tri Hita Karana, a traditional wisdom that emphasizes harmony among fellow humans, nature, and the divine.

 

As we transition from the historical and cultural milieu to the individual stories, one name stands out - Afandy Dharma Fairbrother. 

 

His story, like that of many on the island, is a blend of tradition and innovation, local roots and global influences.

 

A former pro skater turned skatepark mogul whose love for the sport reshaped the contours of Bali's urban scene.

 

In this ever-changing urban panorama, Afandy has navigated the intricate labyrinth of Bali's evolving identity. 

 

He's taken a sport that was once sidelined and turned it into a cultural cornerstone, not only across the island, but also all over Indonesia, cementing its place in the global skateboarding community.

 

Insert Interview Segment - Afandy

Like when we were young, like, oh, I want to win the lottery. Want to win the lottery. You know, I want to have like this, want to have that. But then, like, when I look back now and when I, when I've I've seen some other parts of the world, I feel like we won the lottery by our parents moving here back in the day. But when I was growing up in Petitinget, you know, I'd ride my bicycle everywhere, no traffic. I still remember like, you know, where Mexicola is and like, that was all rice fields. And we used to ride our bikes down there and just play in the rice fields, like, chase cows and stuff. 

 

And then on our way to the skatepark, which is Double Six. So we would ride our bike all the way to Double Six. And we didn't have anything back then, even the skate stuff. 

 

It was so hard to get. And once we got a set of trucks, like new ones, we go, oh, I want to borrow it, we'd share it. And it wasn't like now where everyone's just super spoiled in terms of everything that they have, even the locals. Everyone's got branded skateboards and everything like that.

 

I started skating about like seriously, about twelve years old. And yeah, we used to skate at Double Six intersection with all the homies, just skating in the ledges that we built and rails.

 

 There was no skate parks back then. There was a few skate points that we would move around to Sempang Siur, Double Six. Petitinget. 

 

I grew up in Petitinget actually. Right. I used to live next to the temple on the beach. We actually started learning how to build ramps pretty early on, build wooden ramps and then use really ghetto angle iron with the holes in it, which was not really good, but it was cheap and easy to work with trial and error. 

 

Like when we moved the Point. Like, all the homies moved to Sempang Siur like, right in front of where Dijon is. That used to be a little skate park. Like, the road was closed off on both ends and we just had, like, a little strip and we would build like, wooden ramps there and they would get destroyed and then we'd have to rebuild them, get sponsors and just getting rained on. And then one day I had a friend that was actually a construction worker in Australia, and he showed us that concrete was good to work with too. 

 

We're like, oh, yeah, that'd be cool. So he helped us build, like, a ledge out of concrete. He had all the tools, like trowels and everything, and he showed us how to do it, and it wasn't that hard and it lasted so long, so we're just like, wow, concrete is really something that we can work with cheap. 

 

So after that, that was around 2002, 2003. And then 1s back then there was only one or two shops that were selling boards, like Jungle Surf, which is Falcom's owner right now. And they were selling, like, US brands that were like, back then, they were already like, 700,000, which was so expensive. And then there was, like, a cheaper brand. I remember saving up all my lunch money to get this board, like a really shitty board. 

 

It was like, the cheaper one. And then I remember not eating for a month and then finally getting this board and then just, like kick flip a and just snapping it the first day, just like, devastated. So I was like, man, we need to figure out how to get, like, a cheaper alternative, but in good quality. So, 2004, I ordered like, ten blank boards from China. So they were actually came and they were good quality. I only sold them to my friends and then from there, okay, those are sold out. I ordered 20 and then 50. And we came up with a name. It's like, oh, let's just put the name on the board. So I was in Malaysia, just looking down at the buildings, just like, all the cars driving by, like, oh, this looks like some pretty interesting motion. So I was like, oh, that's the name. 

 

So we printed boards and then 1s 50 boards and then sold them to everybody. Just word of mouth, just friends and everything. There's nothing online back then. Didn't have a shop then, saved up money. And then in 2007, three years later, we ended up opening a shop in Jalan Ligyan with the help of my wife. Her mom had a shop and she let us use it, which is still open to this day. 

 

Motion Skate Shop. And yeah, with that saving money from the boards, being able to open the shop, acquiring some brands from the States, we were able to save money. And then what we didn't have back then was a skate park, like Base Skate park. I don't know if you've heard, it was like one of the biggest skate parks opened up in Central Park here, but it didn't even last a year and it closed down. And I was like, man, we shouldn't think about building a skate park. And. And that's when I met David, who is my partner now, who helps me with building all the skate parks. He's like the project manager. And we met together and let's just build a park, you know, like from because I had a team of guys, which I still do about six boys. 

 

And we didn't have a place to skate, so I was let's let's build a park, you know. So we figured out best way was to build like an indoor park with a roof concrete ground because we were already pretty good at building wooden parks from base because David used to work with base and smaller like we would build skate parks out of wood, which was pretty before, prior to building the Motion Skate Park, which is still open to this day, too.

 

 I had to learn how to work with concrete properly, not just that one ledge. So it was like Google, like YouTube, trying to learn how to really set the concrete slab properly. So it was 400 meters squared. And we ended up pouring it in like three days, four days. And the first section was pretty bad, super bumpy. And I was fucked up. But two other sections were pretty on point, which is our first concrete job that we did just from not really knowing how to do anything. 

 

Really didn't even have the right tools. And yeah, we didn't even know the right mix, but. 1s Pretty much took a shot in the dark. And, yeah, it's still pretty good now. Like, it's still smooth, you know, it's a bit uneven, but still fine. Like, totally skateable. Yeah, first, it was just like, people were like, oh, I heard you know how to build skate parks. You know, like, we want a bowl here. Pretty poison was born. 

 

That was, like, our first bowl we ever built. First pool coping we ever tried, and it fucking worked out perfect. And then, like, bigger companies started to hit us. Know this big company in Sumareka, which is a corporation. It's one of the biggest corporations in Indonesia. And they were building, like, a mall, and they're like, oh, I want to build a skate park. So, okay, let's figure out how we can do our big first big scale project. It turned out good, and the skate park was fine, but that was, like, one of our biggest skate parks that we did. 

 

Like, first street park, which we designed and built, turned out great. And then from that, it just started to snowball. Parks started being built everywhere. And in Bali right now, there's, like, 20 parks, including DEOs mini ramp. There's only one motion skate park, which is the one we built back in 2009 in opposite Siloam. 

 

The rest is we're just like, the contractor that built it puts our stamp on it. Yeah, there's a few. We built a few in Jakarta. Samarita is, like, maybe three or four in Jakarta, one in Kalimantan, one in Sulawesi, one in Sumatra, few in Lombok. Yeah, we did this some design we're starting to maybe build one in Singapore. Yeah, we've done some design work for the Chinese government as well. 

 

Having hardly any street spots here makes it so difficult to film, like a video part, like a video, like, for our skateboard brand or like any skateboard brand. Indonesia, it's so hard to film. That's why we always fly out, you know, like Malaysia, Singapore, to go film stuff. 

 

In terms of industry, like, actually there's a lot of local brands, local board brands that have sprung up everywhere in Indo. Because Indo is like such a big country with so many islands, and pretty much in every major city, there is a community of skateboarders. So I'd say it's mostly scattered, but there is a lot of skateboarders. 

 

Like 2018 skate go skateboarding day in Jakarta is like 3000 people. I'd say the most skateboarders there are in Java, for sure. Bandung, Jakarta, Yogja, Samarang, Surabaya.

 

There's so many skaters in that area. But I'd say in terms of facilities like skate parks, Bali is definitely number one. I mean, one of the kids that used to be on our team, his name is Sangu. He grew up skating Motion pretty much since he was like six, or seven years old.

 

 And now he's already an older kid and he got picked up by a US brand, and he was like a prodigy. So he was going around just, like, winning all the contests in Indo. A lot of younger kids just really looked up to him and just these younger kids that are really good at skateboarding. When he was growing up, there was not many, but now, the past five years, there's just so many young kids that have just come up and skate. 

 

Because of the popularity of SLS, I'd say overall, skateboarding has kind of like a bad rap in culture 1s from a while back. But slowly these days, it's a lot better from being in the Olympics. And again, like, Sangu, he actually came second in the Asian Games and first in the Sea Games, southeast Asian Games. And that really opened the eyes of everybody. Like, wow. Skateboarding is actually like a sport that 2s is recognized nationally, which has never been before. Indo, they didn't really give a shit about.

 

They're like, what the fuck is skateboarding? Why are you even doing that? So dangerous. But now I see even some parents in my bunjar. They're like, oh yeah, I really want my kid to start skating. It's like, you would never hear that, like, ten years ago. So it's really good. 

 

Of course, the skate parks that we've built, the quality, the design, 1s because I really know the demographic of Indonesian skateboard, especially, like, kids coming up. So, for instance, the Kuta park, the way we designed it was really mellow, easy for beginners. So I had it in mind. It's a skate park that's going to be able all ages, all skill levels. Can really enjoy that part. 1s So, like, a park like that really will create a lot of interest and a lot of new people that want to skate it. Yeah, definitely.Good quality skate Parks play a huge part in creating and nurturing an industry and the community. I think it's looking really good, especially with the Sea Game is already being established, as well as the Asian Games when skateboarding is in that. 

 

And there's going to be a new category for Pond, which is like state competitions, which was never. So the skateboarding is going to be part of that. So each state around Indo, which is fucking everywhere, 1s can send their team to participate in an event, which the winners will head to the bigger event, which is a qualification for the Scene Games later on, which is good too. So that's going to push. The local governments really want to see more skateboarders taken care of so they can actually make a living off skateboarding. Getting more sponsors. 2s That's the main goal. Maybe have a brand that comes out of Bali that can actually go mainstream. That would be awesome too. 

Transition Part - Stories Segment with Crille Rask

 

But tales of trials and tribulations aren't confined to locals alone. Bali is a magnetic force, pulling in souls from across the world, providing refuge for a few days, a few weeks, a few months or a lifetime.

 

The island serves as an international melting pot, where bars become theaters of oral tradition, and passersby turn into their captive audience. Stories are told, retold, and repurposed, echoing across the busy streets, through the Kampungs, and past the sacred temples. The flavor of these stories changes with the teller, their tongues lending unique spices to the narrative stew. The island may provide the stage, but it's the diverse individuals who play the role of the artists, each adding their vibrant paint to Bali's colorful mural.

 

Transient by nature, individuals come and go, marking the island with their footprints and whispers. Some stories fade, while others linger, becoming staples of the local lore.

 

One such story belongs to Crille Rask. Born far from the Bukit's fabled lefthanders, the soft-spoken and intellectually sexy Swede with Portuguese roots often found behind the lens, rider of many crafts, and fellow Roark ambassador, is one of Bali's many adopted sons. Crille embodies the blend of locals and expats that have found themselves inexplicably drawn to the island. 

 

In our conversation, he portrays an island that challenges and tests those who try to question it but equally offers a unique sense of belonging that makes it nearly impossible to leave.

 

 

Insert Interview Segment - Crille Rask

 

Man, my first trip there here, to be honest, I hated it. I was working a TV production in Malaysia, Survivor. I was working as a nurse, security guard for the contestants and somehow a bunch of the crew was going to come over here and like, oh, Bali. 

 

I've heard of Bali so much, you know, it's a surf destination 1s of I'm like, okay, cool. When the production is done, I'll join in for a week because we're in Malaysia. So it's like a two and a half hour flight over and man, I just got it. Dropped into Kuta. Never completely lost. Hated it. It was so intense, and I think mainly because I had done zero research or just knew the name and kind of just struggled with it. 

 

And I was like, oh, maybe I won't come back to this place, but next year, same thing. I work with the same survivor. Production decided again. All right, I'll give it another go. And I stayed and came for ten days. And sort of three or four days into the trip I ran into Wick, one of my oldest Balinese friend, one of the most genuine people I've ever met. 

 

And I spent so many, it was pretty much I felt like it was a version of me that was from here. And we just clicked and we started surfing, hanging. A couple of months later I came back for three months and stayed at his house just three months, surfing, hanging out, party. And suddenly I started loving Kuta because he showed me the different side, I would say. But I spent my first years only hanging out with Balinese people pretty much, or Indonesians, but mainly Balinese. 

 

That's why I never took me so long to learn the language because they kept switching between Balinese and Indonesian. So I still like I still don't speak Balinese, but I do speak quite, quite a lot of Indonesian. But I just I got shown such a sick side of this place. Like, there's so much they're so creative, so cultural strong in their Hindu beliefs, obviously, also. 

 

But there's there's so much punk rock, metal, like subcultures, you know, and they go all in. The guys that are punk rock, their art is no different than the Social Distortion fans in OC. They just had this all in feeling, which I really could relate to. I never called into anything, but in opinion, always, I loved strong directions of people. 

 

I'm a punk rocker and I'm like, yeah, that's so sick. You're going all the way and I can observe and you really enjoy it. I couldn't be that guy, but I could relate to it. And there was something in that part where, like so anyone who loved music, for instance, they learned how to play guitar, sing, draw, and so quickly, in a sense where they never had been told as a kid, you can't do this. 

 

That's the biggest difference I noticed with this culture that actually attracted me. There's like, no one ever tells anyone that they can't do it. They just try. While back home, even my parents or anyone's parents would be like, oh, yeah, my son's not good with a ball. Like, he's doing gymnastics now, or like, we put him in music school or this and that. Why didn't you just tell your kid, like, you can do whatever you want, just have fun, right? 

 

And that was, again, I think, the main reason why I wanted to come back. I really experienced the freedom, the sense of freedom and creativity that the people here have and so easy going while being that 3s I don't know, it wasn't the busyness, it wasn't the waves, it wasn't anything. There was something about, to be honest, like, sounds spiritual. But the energy here that the people of Bali, I think, have created, there's something I mean, there's a reason why it's one of the most visited islands.

 

 Not for the better, in my opinion. I don't think anywhere should be too visited and have too much tourism. But energy, man, I think it's energy. 1s There's something and I actually spoke to my girlfriend about this, I think it was yesterday because there's been a lot of talk now since it's opened up, like how people are behaving, etc. 

 

Again, coming back to the people, the Balinese people, they're so flexible, so easy going. And I think it. Effect and you feel it like you feel good in in their presence and in sort of the space that they've created, I would say. I'm still trying to figure out why I came back. I've tried to leave. I've been on my way out of here a couple of times. I've lived there for almost eleven years now and it was never a plan.

 

 I was just going to come and hang after working in France, in Hosigal for six years and I just wanted to get out, do something. I was going to go to Australia but I was going to do a pit stop in Bali for a little while just to cruise and not work for a couple of months. I just stayed. And somehow there's a free. I don't know if it inspires a certain freedom, but it's very free here as long as you're positive and behave in a positive way. And it can give you everything in a sense. I can't say what it is that is, but I think it's the way that people are that shapes the place. 

 

But I can't put my finger on what it is and I don't think most people can. I mean, you can say it's the spiritual aspects of Bali and all that. But on a deeper level, there's something else there. It has an energy that no-one reallyBut you can get the same feeling here. When shit people come here from all over the world and then never leave, they just stay for years andstarts hitting the fan a little bit here, it's almost like everyone says it has lived there for a long time. Like the isle will kick you in and out and around expats that's been there for a while and they'll all say the same.

 

 Like sometimes it's really hard to be here and there's no explanation. It just starts going. Something might start going wrong, have a little accident and it's just this chain event and you're like, I got to get out of here. And I've never had that feeling anywhere else. But at the same time the calling back has always been so strong and there's not a wave, not a food plate, there's nothing that I can put the finger on that is like this is the reason. And the people is the closest thing and the energy that they are providing for the place, I have to say. But I never planned to stay here. I never planned to do what I'm doing. And suddenly I've had my whole life set up here.

 

I was pretty much a full time photographer, mainly fashion at the time. Every cent I made I put into a new thing and a new building or project that could generate. I started counting the amount of times I used my lenses, I bought. I was like, is this going to make it? Am I going to get my money back for this thing? Is it an investment or just a liability? Whatever. And anyway, it led to building t a couple more properties. I built a bar called the Black Cat, which was probably the first speakeasy hidden bar in the Changu area. It happens to be a sushi hand roll restaurant no to the owner of Tiger Sushi that was building at the time being.

 

And so as I met with him, he said I was making a sushi place and I figured it'll be good taste and stuff. So I was like, oh, damn it, we hadn't built half the building already. So me and my business partner like, man, we got to change it. And they're like, let's just do a hidden bar. And then we didn't know what to put in the front, so we put it like, let's just do a shitty supermarket that has a reason to be open till late and hide the door. And man, it just went see. I did not know what I was getting myself into. 

 

It was stressful because that's what the Balinese do. Instead, they will just try, even if it's bloody wanting to become a fisherman. They'll go buy a boat and try it. And I think the freedom in that, again, not being told, oh, you shouldn't do what you're not good at. It's the biggest load of crap. I think that is the biggest appeal for me. I now get to draw. 

 

I am getting hired as an architect. I'm not an architect. I would never call myself a photographer, an architect or anything. I keep that very clear. I can do it for you. But I am mean would never put place myself in a box or a title where I'm yeah, I'm an architect. I might not never. But I've designed and built more than 20 buildings in these eight years. I find this the issue with the Western culture where it's we're so boxed in. 

 

There's only one way. When I got the job, when I started working for Rhythm back in the day, it was always like, oh, you're a marketing manager. And I was like, how do you get into that? I surfed with a guy in Hosagore and then met this guy who recommended me from working with snowboard events in the Arctic Circle. 1s And that's how I got in there. And then a couple of years later, I'm like, well, I'm just doing what makes me feel good, but yeah, but what dedication do you have? My degrees from a great Swedish school that I went to. 

 

Great public Swedish school. They don't even exist. I didn't complete the last two courses, so I have zero grades. But I have not once in my life found a reason why I needed them again because I don't say it's for everyone. Some people are perfectly functioning and happy following a certain system or a leader or whatever it is, and then there's some people that don't fit into that mold, but there's almost no okay, way to go. That own way here, bringing this back to here. The Balinese know how to have fun, so I think they cracked the code here. 

 

Transition Part - Culture Segment with Rizal Tanjung

 

Our exploration of Bali wouldn't be complete without a deep dive into the island's cultural history. 

 

Ever since I started writing the script for this episode, this segment belonged to one person and one person only - Rizal Tandjung. 

 

For the better part of 2 months, I have tried to pin down Rizal as we tried to navigate pumping surf and last-minute flights to Sumatra. I would call, and he'd be surfing somewhere with bad signal. 

 

He'd respond to my text trying to meet up, but I'd be hunting down waves somewhere in Lombok.

 

This would repeat itself a handful of times, but as fate would have it, we did catch up eventually, and I almost missed my flight as a result. 

 

But when Indonesian surf royalty makes time for you, you do what you have to do - even if it means making a detour on the way to the airport, renting a tiny office cubicle with no A/C last minute, and setting up a makeshift recording studio with no adequate equipment and broken microphone in what felt like the most claustrophobic and hottest room I've ever been in. 

 

All for the opportunity to capture a few words from the man, some surf journalist calls, "Easily the smoothest and most stylish surfers to ever walk the planet."

 

The tall, thin, rubber-limbed goofy-footer is an icon of the sport, often named in the same breath alongside Kelly Slater, Shane Dorian and the rest of the Momentum Generation. Tanjung was born on the Indonesian Island of Sulawesi and moved to Bali with his family at the age of 1. While not native to the Island, Bali has adopted Rizal as much as Rizal has adopted its culture and way of life. 

 

And there's no one better to guide us through the intricacies of Balinese culture than someone who put Bali and the legendary lefthanders at Uluwatu on the map for the rest of us to witness

 

Through our conversation, Rizal proved to be not just an incredible free surfer, but also a master storyteller. 

 

He detailed the complex network of customs and traditions that form the beating heart of a culture as vibrant and resilient as the island itself.

 

But to truly understand the Balinese culture intimately, we have to understand the philosophy of Tri Hita Karana, or the "Three Causes of Goodness," first, which is the origin of the Balinese belief system. 

 

It underlines the importance of maintaining a harmonious relationship with God, people and nature. 

 

Once aware, you see its influence everywhere - in architecture, agriculture, traditions, and how it all ties back to mother nature, the ocean, the waves, and in a way, Rizal himself.

 

Insert Interview Segment - Rizal Tandjung

Bali's bomb. Bali is like it's a surfer paradise. You can surf Uluwatu and then in the afternoon when the wind change. You can go straight to Nusa Dua and its offshore. 

 

There aren't many places in the world. California, when it's blown out, it's blown out. But in Bali Oh, blow the west side or the other side. So Bali is the dream. So many little nooks or little bay, little corners, different winds and different swell directions. Y

 

You can surf all day long and even small day too. You can go somewhere like small day go Nyang Nyang. The bigger day. Go to Ulu. And then you go to Canggu side, go change at any wave you want. 

 

Like beach break, reef breaks, point breaks, wedges, anything you want. And here also now, since the surf industry is here you can get a brand new board and one other can trade getting new board. 

 

So you can become a side of good or a good place to become. Like training camps for surfing to become better. You go to Bali and come for one week or one month, two months, three months. It becomes a home base.

 

 And from that, you can see the swell. Okay, damn, I want to go to Lakey Peak for three days and chase that swell. Or I want to go to G Land for four or five days. Or fly to Sumatra for a couple days and back to Bali and then go to Desert Point. 

 

So Bali have this kind of comfort zone for all the surfer in the world. Come here first to get used to the wave and the time change. Jet lags and Bali so easy places, a lot of good food, a lot of good accommodation. 

 

Depends of your budget how much you have. Because in a low class like lostman's homestead or a middle class kind of like 500,600 to 8 million a day. So Bali and this kind of offer of people travel or come here and to have that kind of homebase. 

 

And then from that you can go I want to go buy the car and then go over the ferry or you want to go to planes, things like that, or speedboat. So Bali can give you that kind of thing. So Bali become the hub of surfing the melting pot. 

 

Back in the day in Bali when my parents moved to Bali when I was a baby, one years old. But I grew up with five different brothers. So we have six boys, big brother kind of things. 

 

I'm number five from the beach in the ocean is always our getaway. Because back then, the early days Bali wasn't much to offer because. 

 

Kuta still a small fish on village and very sleepy back then. There's no fans or nothing. I just walk like five to seven minutes straight through my neighborhood. There's a whole bunch of potion trees and things like footpath, no asphalt, road, not texting you straight to the beach, go through the sand dunes. And we grew up by the beach. So my brother, he was surfing one of the first guy who's surfing our family and he hang out with Ketut Menda . 

 

Ketut Menda is the one of first Bali surfing pioneers. And they kind of protected travel the world. But they went to Australia to Hawai, and Menda have a surf shop called Bali Barrels. And my brother really good friend with him, so somehow he get know, he loves surfing. 

 

And I get introduced by surfing through my brother. He pushed me first wave on know, when I was like seven years old. Since then I was hooked. No one ever know that surfing going to be like this massive, this big. And I mean, we just do it because we love it and we love to be hanging around at the beach and we love the way how surfing give us happiness and joy and give us more community. We can become a community. Serve all day and then at the beach after service, always watching sunset, everybody and the beach and get together. When we're good, we serve all day. When we're not good, we just hang out at the beach by soccer. Just kind of little community things. And you can count how many people in the water back then. 

 

It's not hardly tourist and people selling drinks, things like that. So it's really become a small community and then surfing becomes so big and changed. The way of Bali like it is today is so massive. Bali one of the biggest surfing destinations in the world. How from small fishermen village here in Kuta and become more like one of massive tourist developments. Like From small homestay become five star hotels and a Circle Ks around tattoo shops and every name in every corner circle Ks and mini bars and tattoo shops and nightclubs. So Kuta Become is one of the fastest growing places in the world. Just nothing there just becomes super 1s tourist attractions, and it's not normal. Surfing just changed so fast. 

 

From 12 years old, I was become like just nothing. And twelve years old, I was starting hanging out with Ketut Menda in Bali Barrel Surf shop, hang out by the surfers. So we just love to be hanging out in the surf shop to just hang out, just talk about surf, helping somebody broke their board. We fixing to board each other together, helping each other. And we try to make money by team repair, by tourist board, things like that. So you learning about things, doing things you don't realize. You become a little entrepreneur fixing boards. You get money, oh, 25,000 thousand, just a little thing like this and then things like that. So. 1s Well, serving to kind of help people to become kind of self independent 1s entrepreneur like, you're a hustler. You know, surfing, it is a hassle. Every day you hassle to get wasted from everyone. So you kind of have that kind of natural kind of instincts, how to survival. 

 

Surfing is your survival. If not, you will so as well. In Bali surfing dry reef in Ulu if you don't survive, you're done. So that kind of taught you in life about teaching you about to become who you are. But back then, only once a year we have contests or competitions and then after that we have this kind of contest. Like every summer, a bunch of people from all over the world coming. 

 

They're doing like this top under 16, under 18 top surfers from all over the world, australia, America, hawai like New Zealand, South Africa, Japan, they all come and we do this world ramen contest as Autobah Kutzuard. And I was like one of the winner.

 

 I was the first Indonesian junior champion from that. And I was like, you know what? I want to be a pro surfer. And then Kusaru sponsored me and traveled. Sent me to travel to Australia and Hawaii. And then, boom, the surface started. So it changed the culture, for sure. 

 

Culture is the big part of Balinese lifestyle because you see every day those Balinese people, they do offering to the God and they believe in karma. And people never hope. All those kids give kids they don't want anything in return. They just do it for themselves. And that what is Balinese people. 

 

You can see a lot of people, 1s they felt like home here. Even they're far away from where they're from. And Bali is like making them feel comfortable and easy people to come in and become their home. And the culture a big part of that because the Balinese, they work so hard and try to keep this place. 

 

I think not too many people, no place in the world have this kind of vibe. When you land in Bali, you can feel it in different energy or. 1s Just also you think about Bali. Indonesia is 20 something million people. And then the only small we have 17,000 more than 17,000 island. 

 

And Bali the only island that Hindu, you know. And then gives that kind of the last kind of malikum, you know, like the last kind of place that have this kind of vibe, you know. I love it. The Balinese people like they touch me like give me like kind of peaceful mind you like that. And then give you like a mantra. 1s They pray to the God because that's why they call Bali the island of the God. 

 

And they always pray anything like that. And they always do ceremonial with offering thing like that. They dancing thing like that. So for me when I was younger, 4s from my grade one till six, I went to these Catholic schools in Denpasar start. And then when I start into serving when I twelve years old, I moved to junior high school to Kuta. 

 

And Kuta is more like local, local school. And then down there they taught me how these Balinese dancing classes. And back then I hate it. I hated Bali dance. But now looking back, I love it because they teach me how to style. Look at the culture. 1s The Balinese. Give me finger. So they give me because I'm tall and lanky. So they give me kind of how to look nice and clean my finger. 

 

Finger movement is a big deal in surfing. You can see just the way my fingers surfing. Sometimes your hand movement is very unique. I think for me even your little finger hand like that. It's like a little wing in surfing even direction is turning your finger like that a little bit to the right. It can give you a little kind of torch, a little pressure. So this influenced me from the balance culture to my surfing. 

 

You see every corner we're in. Good wave is a big temple. You go to the biggest temple in Uluwatu, you go to Chang, the first thing you see is the big temple. So the oceans and the culture and the spiritual they always connected to the ocean, to the water. 

 

Also the Balinese, when you passed away, when you died, they burn your body and they throw your ass in the ocean. So this automatic circle of life they have that already connected with that and the ocean and give you the most peaceful things ever. 

 

Go out there in the water sitting and waiting for the wave and give you different kind of energy before it's not serving one. Not very like we are the black sheep of the whole group community. Because we are like sunburn bleach, hair blonde, red eye from surf all day they look us like what the hell is this kid? And then now look at it. Serving become Bali most biggest tourism surfing. Because surfing gives life to all these people. Because I think we serve birth.

 

Today they stay in the warung and they rent a bike, they buy petrol on the streets so the money is going to everywhere. Not like much of most massive Victoria. They just stay in the Nusa Dua area that way area where nice hotel and just Copper hotel but it's different. But the surfers they travel and they stay more to the local talent and it changed the way how people think of the surfing now we accept it and also now surfing become finally glassier. We are in the sport community in Indonesia. The government finally like oh, they see us because we are in the Olympics right now. They see us like oh, serving can bring gold medal, gold medal, medal and then now the money there try to help. 

 

So it changed slowly. The way they see us and serving it is one of the biggest upcoming sport now. And look at it now like Krui, Nias, they put money into support as sport, tourism money, because they see like Krui and Sumatra from maybe like a couple thousand tourists a year now become double each shared off that I see is serving. Bring tourism, bring money to the area, to the region. 1s And now that's why all Indonesian people want to be served. 

 

1s And they change every way, the family, the way the culture, the way the religions, you know, because back then people always have this kind of myth of story. Not myth like a big story about 1s the goddess or sea goddess take you when you wear green, take you away from you from the from the family but now it changed, you know, you have to enjoy the moment. You cannot changed. 

 

Bali looks so much better in the even. I asked Jerry Lopez back then before we stay in Kuta and we go to surf and go back to Kuta. Now I can stay in Canggu and surf and my wife can come enjoying this thing like this well before I cannot. But Bali still has the magic, still have the power and the smells and 3s the energy of 1s what people fell in love from the first place. 

 

It's never changed. But the masterism, of course everyone want to be a surfer thing like that we cannot change it. But now 2s we need to become more smarter as a new generation, as Indonesian, as a local, how to manage the tourists, how to manage the waste, how to manage our area, for example, preserve some area and not get raped and feel overbuilt. And where the rubush and trash going to go? Thing like that. I think with the new generation, smart. Like for example, from Song, the guy from Song watch. They're starting clean the rivers and educate the people and then know do the plastics. 

 

They're doing all this normal plastic in the supermarket. So we do some movements and some just take know cannot change automatic in like times but we are trying 1s as hard as we can to protect and know Bali become know beautiful in a new way. Yeah, of course. Like the tourists or whoever the visit come to Bali should do respect to the local. Does not feel like take take if something like you would feel you want to give back. Maybe you can donate something to the people. Like a lot of things. Like last time this Korean guy, my friend from surfer, he called me rich. 

 

I want to donate this like 50 backpacks, full bows and pencil thing like can you know some any orphanage people can have this for sure, no problem. And he give me all these 50 bags. And me and my friend went to this gift to this guy in British area by pass chanidas area. When they need it. Thing like that they can do simple thing like that more. The things you can do is for example, you can do that wafer water that filter. You can go back from America and buy sample filters. 

 

Put it to throw your backs and give to when you go to Sumbawa or somewhere that you or Bali some area that you see the family needed. You can give that filter so they can sit right by water. They can filter any water from the well or any from the thing. You just drink it. No need to buy from supermarket. Things like that. You can save money. Things like that you can do to give back to the people, to the country. 

 

 

As we approach the end of our Bali journey, I find myself peering through the looking glass of memories and conversations. The lullaby of the waves. The whispers of the ancient temples. The hushed sound of the emerald green rice fields - they all blend into a harmonious symphony that tells the story of this Island.

 

Yet, within this beautiful mosaic of time and space, certain pieces sparkle more luminously than others. It's the individuals - the custodians of the island - who have shaped and been shaped by Bali's ever-evolving rhythm. 

 

It's their stories, complicated and profound, that resonate with the spirit of the land. 

 

And above all, it's the resilience - an unyielding spirit that ebbs and flows like the mighty sea, a spirit that mirrors Bali's own timeless endurance.

 

I explored, I experienced, I listened, and I learned. Yet, as I reflect on my time with Rizal and Marlon. 

 

Crille and Afandy Fairbrother, I'm reminded of a fundamental truth - that every story told is a mirror of the teller.

 

I'm Sunny Fassler, and you are listening to Duct Tape Theory. Until next time.